CLARKSDALE, MISSISSIPPI

The town of Clarksdale is simply the best place to see and hear real Blues musicians, who live, breathe and play their blues with guitars, drums and harmonicas (the Harp). This little Mississippi town, on the edges of Arkansas & Tennessee, has real ‘Juke Joints’ like “Reds” & “Ground Zero”, the kind I’ve only seen in the movies.

 

Michael and I spent 4 days in Clarksdale and every night and one Saturday inside these joints, some of which only had room for 30 people.  We heard absolutely fabulous, real down home blues. We got to know the musicians, their music and the way they live. The town’s people were amazing too. We weren’t in town more than 10 minutes when entering our home (as we refer to all our accommodations) we were greeted and welcomed by neighborly Charles, an elderly gentleman straight out of the Great Gatsby era.

Directly across the street from us was Hambone Art & Music (check it out at www.stanstreet.com) where we met Stan Street and his wife Dixie. Stan is a transplanted Rochesterian who’s living his dream, making art and playing the blues. We also met and hung out with Joe & Kate from Montana & Ron & Eleanor from Ontario, Canada who were doing the same thing as we were…traveling for the blues.

The streets and sidewalks of Clarksdale are in desperate need of repair and many shops are empty, broken down and neglected. The Juke Joints are old, decrepit places and at first glance “what are you crazy? I’m not going in there!” I did not feel safe taking an early morning walk alone more than 5 or 6 square blocks but still…..

The Juke Joints, the music, the people, the art, the food (down home southern’ cookin’).

I’m trying to come up with the right words so that I can save (savor) this experience over and over again when I reread this page. It sounds extreme but I know I was giddy with delight and discovery the entire time we were there. The word “sublime” comes to mind, a new experience never to be forgotten!

To put it in perspective, I knew only a smidgen of music called the blues (Nat King Cole, B.B. King, the big names, my Mom loved them!). Michael introduced me to what I call the other side of the Blues. Blues with history and real life story-songs (I made that word up!).  Also, appreciation of the instruments and how they are played, such as the harp, the sax, a keyboard, bass guitars etc.  AHHHH!

Here’s my analogy. I love my shiny black high heels, fun to step out in and looking good! But when I take them off and put on my black comfy slippers I say AHHHH!

And, as Red says, “It is what it is….”

Enjoy the pictures….

Mike & I at Ground Zero, Clarksdale

 Stan Street on Sax at Ground Zero

Pat Moss & Stan

"went down to the crossroads..."

Robert Walker at Reds

 "Big A" Anthony at Reds

Mike at Ground Zero

King Fish at Reds (16 yrs old and amazing)

Big A on drums, wild man!

Dixie on Drums at Hambone's

Stan & Friends at Hambone's

Chatting with the guys during a break (Big A & King Fish)

 Father & Daughter team at Hambone's